Holy Week at MSC Melody, Part IV

We had the Holy Thursday Mass in the evening, and more than two hundred people attended. The Captain and the Vice Captain came for the service. The Ship manager arranged to have twelve crewmembers for the washing of the feet. It was a moving ceremony on all accounts. I could see the joy in the faces of those who had been chosen for this; and at the same time a little “embarrassed” that they allowed a priest to wash their feet. I used the occasion to explain to them why Jesus performed this important ceremony before his crucifixion. We take seriously the last wish of a person, and   how much more seriously we need to take Jesus' command to his disciples the day before his death: “If I, therefore, the master and teacher, have washed your feet, you ought to wash one another’s feet. I have given you a model to follow, so that as I have done for you, you should also do” (Jn. 13: 14-15). Jesus did this before celebrating the Last Supper, which also means that serving our brothers and sisters is a precondition for celebrating the Eucharist. After the service, the Captain told the manager to tell all the crewmembers that they could attend the rest of the Holy Week services if there was a possibility for them to adjust their work. Some of the crewmembers also felt comfortable talking to me about their spiritual struggles, looking for my advice and prayers. At the end of the service, I reminded them of the need to attend the Good Friday and Easter services.

The MSC Melody was sailing through the Black Sea towards the north, aiming to reach Odessa, another port city in the Ukraine. We reached Odessa early in the morning and the beauty of the port city was beautifully exposed to our eyes through the rays of the rising sun. Odessa is the fourth largest city in Ukraine. The Lithuanians and then the Ottomans until Catherine the Great, Empress of Russia, took over the city. She founded the city in 1794 and it continues to be a prosperous city.

I joined the “Odessa City Tour” group to visit some of the most important city monuments. The statue of the founder of Odessa, Empress Catherine II was one of the attractions there. Her left hand points toward the direction the city was to be founded. Her right hand holds the decree of foundation: “Let there be a port and city…”

The most iconic of all the symbols in Odessa was the 192 Potemkin Steps. These steps created an illusion that those at the top only saw a series of large steps, but at the botttom the steps merged into a pyramid-shaped structure.

We also walked through the attractive pedestrian avenue, the Deribasovskaya Street, which was leading to the Odessa Opera & Ballet Theatre. The grand Renaissance-era Theater built in 1887 is considered one of the world’s finest theatres.

We saw some of the rare collections of Ukrainian and Russian paintings in the Museum of Fine Arts. Since we were not allowed to take pictures, the beauty of those paintings remains oblivious to my readers.

The monument of the “Unknown Marine” near the Shevchenko Park gave an enchanting view over the Black Sea and was a place of much activity. This Obelisk, to mark the fifteenth anniversary of victory over Germany, was unveiled in 1960 and we saw young school volunteers there to stand guard at the memorial.  This was a tradition started from the days of Soviet Union rule where Young Communist League children stood guard at the memorial. It was considered a great honor to be selected for this ceremony and only the loyal members were given the privilege to do that. I left with a high appreciation of the Ukrainian Culture and tradition after my Yalta and Odessa tour.

Holy Week at MSC Melody, Part III

There were no increase in the number of attendees for the daily Mass despite my best attempt to attract more people. Those who did come were very happy and some of them came early to pray in our temporary chapel. On Wednesday, April 20, the ship was sailing through the Mediterranean Sea and we passed by the Dardanelles Straits around 8: 00 a.m. By noon, the ship entered the Marmara Sea sailing towards Bosporus. It was an incredible and unforgettable experience to see  both sides of Istanbul when the ship crossed the straits. This is the meeting point of Asia and Europe, and I understood why Emperor Constantine wanted to make this city the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire.  I will talk more about Istanbul later, because we spent five hours in the city on our way back. We entered the Black Sea after crossing the Istanbul strait and spent the whole night at sea.

We reached Yalta, Ukraine, around noon and the port city of Yalta looked amazingly beautiful. This city situated in Crimea, southern Ukraine, on the north cost of the Black Sea. It was an ancient Greek colony and surrounded by wooded mountains. It reminded me of my own state of Kerala because of its greenery with hills and valleys. The beautiful Mediterranean climate makes Yalta a sought after tourist destination in Ukraine. After a long rule of the Ottoman’s, the Russians took over the city in 1783.

In the 19^th century, many of the Russian aristocrats began to use this as a vacation place. Leo Tolstoy, Maxim Gorky and Anton Chekhov had lived in Yalta for some time. Chekhov wrote some of his most famous stories including The Lady with the Dog from here.  The dissolution of Soviet Union in 1991 caused alot of damage to the economy, and the city is still struggling to recover. The Soviet Union's rule seems to have destroyed this beautiful country religiously, culturally and economically.  

I went with the “Royal Yalta” tour group to visit the Livadia Palace (the White Palace) to have a look at the “Swallow’s Nest”. The Livadia Palace became famous because of the Yalta Conference held in 1945. Franklin R. Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Joseph Stalin met here to discuss Europe’s post-war reorganization. King Nicholas of Russia got the idea of constructing this beautiful palace after he visited and saw the Renaissance places of Italy. Now it is a museum, attracting many tourists who come to see the beauty of Yalta.

Our stop at the “Swallow Nest” offered us a beautiful view of the turreted medieval castle perched on a cliff hanging over the Black Sea. It was built between 1911 and 1912 on the top of a 40-meter cliff and is one of the most popular visitor attractions in Crimea.

There were some beautiful Churches, both  Orthodox and Catholic, but because of time constraint we could not visit many of them, but still enjoyed their beauty from the ship.  The most famous and beautiful of them is the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral constructed by the architect Krasnov, who also constructed the Livadia Palace.